We understand — cats in your yard can be frustrating.
Digging in gardens.
Spraying.
Hunting birds.
Showing up on your camera at 2 AM like they own the place.

This page explains what’s actually happening…what works (and what doesn’t), what your options are and hopefully how to co-exist in a way that works for you and the cats.

Community Cats
The Outdoor Cats in Your Neighborhood

Stray …Feral…or Indoor/Outdoor?
They are different & why it matters.

Determining whether a cat is stray or feral is essential because it directly affects what help and options are available. A simple way to assess this—especially before trapping—is to consider your interactions with the cat: have you been able to approach, pet, or handle it? Cats that allow proximity, vocalize, or seek attention are typically stray cats and may be lost or abandoned pets who need assistance. In contrast, a cat that runs immediately upon seeing a person, avoids all contact, and cannot be safely handled is likely feral and living independently outdoors. Companion Animal Control accepts stray cats from contracted municipalities that include cat services; however, we do not accept feral cats.

Important Note: Behavior is not always black and white. Some community cats may show familiarity with a caregiver, but this does not mean they are suited for indoor living.

Indoor/Outdoor Cat

  • Friendly and comfortable around people

  • May approach homes, doors, or vehicles

  • Often well-fed with a clean, shiny coat

  • May have a collar and/or microchip

  • Active during the same times of day

  • Generally no eartip (clipped ear)

Stray /Lost Cat

  • Previously socialized to people but may be cautious or timid

  • May approach people or linger near homes

  • Typically lives alone (not with other cats)

  • May appear dirty, thin, or unkempt

  • May meow or respond to voices

  • Behavior can vary depending on stress and environment

Feral (Community) Cat

  • Not socialized to people; avoids humans

  • Will not approach and will seek hiding places

  • Often part of a colony of cats

  • Moves low to the ground, avoids eye contact

  • Silent—does not meow or seek attention

  • Often active at night

  • May have an eartip if part of a TNR program

  • Cannot be handled or touched

“I don’t want cats in my yard.”

We understand, but there’s a reason why simply removing the cats doesn’t solve the problem. The “Vacuum Effect” actually means, you’ll make the problem worse.

It seems logical, right…remove the cats → problem solved.

In reality, the opposite usually happens.

Outdoor cat populations are driven by food and territory. When cats are removed from an area that still has resources so new, and often more, cats will simply move into this area. For example, if a colony has 5 cats and 3 are removed, the remaining cats now have more food and territory. Females often produce larger litters, and new cats move into the open space. Within a short time, there are as many or more cats than before. This is well-documented by national organizations and effective population reduction only occurs when a high percentage of cats in an area are sterilized and returned (TNR).

If you don’t want cats on your property, humane deterrents are the most effective solution. Removing cats rarely works long-term due to the vacuum effect.

Humane deterrents that work:

  • Motion-activated sprinklers

  • Motion lights or ultrasonic deterrents

  • Garden fencing or “cat-roller” fence toppers

  • Commercial scent repellents

  • Removing food sources (bird seed, pet food, garbage access)

  • Blocking access under decks/sheds

Cats choose areas with food, shelter, or prey.
If those disappear, they usually move on.

Important: Do Not Trap a Cat Until You Have a Plan

We frequently receive calls after someone has already trapped a cat.

If the cat is feral, there is often nowhere for it to go — during this time continued confinement is stressful and unsafe for the cat. So it is important to have a plan as it is inhumane and potentially animal neglect to leave a cat in a live trap for more than 12 hours. If you trap a cat, you are responsible for finding a humane outcome for that cat. However—keep in mind, the cat you have trapped could be owned by someone and is therefore property.

So before trapping, determine:

  • Is this cat a cat likely owned by someone and lost OR is this a feral cat?

  • If this is a feral Is there a rescue or TNR option available?

  • Does your municipality provide cat services?

If you already have a cat in a trap, move the trap to a shaded area out of the wind and rain. Placing a towel over the trap to create a dark space will often settle a scared cat. If the cat cannot be handled, it is likely feral and CAC will not intake it.

When Confined (Trap/Shelter)

  • Indoor/Outdoor or Stray: May appear fearful or defensive but can warm up

  • Feral (Community): Remains highly stressed, avoidant, and untouchable

Frequently Asked Questions